Eric Forest
Mâcon-Vergisson
Eric Forest and his wines make me think of Dries Van Noten. Hippie chic. Understated and precise. While Eric may not spend so much time as Dries on the business side of things, it is evident that Eric is a very studied and skilled young vigneron. The wines are elegant and flawless. Just as Dries knew fabric because that was the business of his father, Eric is a third generation vigneron. He is working with just over three hectares that he is gradually taking over from his grandfather and father. While today it is rather fashionable to farm organically, Eric works this way because it is what he learned from his grandfather. It is plain to see that Eric is very much at one with his vines and the earth, so to farm with synthetic fertizers or pesticides just wouldn't fit with his overall philosophy of harmony with nature.
A similar philosophy applies to the cellar work where gravity does the moving of the wine from fermenters to aging barrels. Eric is a trained scientist and likes to experiment but adjustments are well thought out and done gradually. He isn't one to swing with trends. Grapes are harvested manually and then gently pressed. After primary fermentation the wines go into barrels and sit on the lees for about 10-15 months. Although Guffens was quite into stirring the lees during the time Eric worked with him, Forest does not use such an aggressive technique on his own wines today. Because of his non-interventionist philosophy, he made some of his early wines without the use of any sulfur but found they just weren't microbially sound. Now sulfur addtions are used but in very small amounts. Other than that, the wines are largely left to rest quietly in the cool subterranean cellar until they are ready for bottling. If the wines have settled out naturally to Eric's satisfaction they are bottled without any filtering. Otherwise a gentle filtering is done to ensure clarity and stability. Bottling is done exclusively by hand.
Sur la Roche
A really tiny production from a NE-facing plot of vines sitting around 400 meters in elevation in Mâcon-Vergisson. Due to the relatively high elevation, the NE exposure, and the veins of limestone that cut through the clay soils, this wine tends to have more freshness and a minerally feel that is lacking in many of the fatter Mâcon wines that come from warmer sites. Only 60 bottles are available for us to import so get it while you can.
L'ame Forest
The literal translation of this wine's name is the Forest soul. Eric feels that the blend of grapes from two different vineyards planted by his grandfather in in 1963 perfectly exemplify the character and soul of what the family has always strived for in its wines. The fruit from Les Tilliers with its calcareous, clay soils gives some ripeness and weight to balance out the powerfully nervy mineral aspect of the fruit from the marl-limestone soils of La Côte located on the northern slope of the Vergisson hill.
Les Crays
There are no classified 1er cru vineyards in Pouilly-Fuisse but Les Crays would surely make the cut if the AOC ever decides to make such a distinction in the area. Marl soils with plenty of limestone and complete southern exposure allow for an ideal growing environment. Forest has several little plots here planted between 1930 and 1966. Perched squarely in the midslope, the fruit here tends to maintain a freshness compared to others with vines lower down the hill that have sandier soils and less of a diurnal temperature swing.
This wine has plenty of complexity and it's not a stretch to say it trumps some of its 1er cru neighbors to the north in terms of power and grace. Notes of almonds, pure, fresh butter, red fruits, meyer lemons are all balanced out by crystaline minerality and a zesty hint of lime. With the overall Forest style than emphasizes purity and freshness, the power in this wine doesn't jump out and smack one upside the head but there is no denying there is a strong buzzing current that runs deep and doesn't fade away quickly.
24 Carats
The name pretty well sums it up. This is a wine made only in the best vintages. When it is made, it is a blend of the best fruit in each plot. Eric finds enough fruit to make one barrel worth of wine so even in the years he decides to make it, there isn't a lot to go around. Don't hesitate to stash some of this away for 10 years or more.
