Bodegas Robles
Montilla-Moriles
If you drive from due south from Cordoba towards Malaga on the coast across the heart of Andalusia, you will cross the little-known DO(Denominacion de Origen) of Montilla-Moriles about 16 miles south of Cordoba. Few stop here on their rush to the coast. This hilly, undulating region where the vines are between 980 and 3,000 feet above sea level is one of the hottest regions of Spain. Summer temperatures often reach 115°, and the sun (there are 2,500 hours of sunshine per year) reflecting on the white chalky limestone- carbonate calcium rich soils called "albarizas" can be blinding. But these soils, composed of up to 50% of chalk and with a great capacity for absorbing and keeping water, and the climate are ideal for producing Montilla Moriles, a wine similar to the better known wines of Jerez, but with an important difference.
90% of the grapes planted in Montilla are Pedro Ximenez. It is said that the Pedro Ximinez grape was brought to the region in the 16th century by a soldier of Charles V who gave his name to the grape. With the high temperatures and plenty of sunlight, the Pedro Ximinez ripens well and with lots of fermentable sugar the wines have enough alcohol that they do not need to be fortified after fermentation, unlike in sherry where the main grape is the rather neutral Palomino to which alcohol is added after fermentation
Though you may bot have heard of these wines, Pauline & Sheidon Wasserman in their Guide to Fortified Wines note: "By the third and second centuries B.C., when Spain - or Iberia- was part of the Roman Empire, the wines of this region were well known."
But most of the prodiction of this region is consumed in Spain and only a handful of the producers export.
Bodegas Robles was founded in 1927 and in 1999 they created the PIEDRA LUENGA range of certified organic wine. It is the first and only certified organic wine of an Andalusiain Denomination of Origin and they grow only Pedro Ximinez.
What is known as "crianza bajo velo" (aging under veil) or "en flor" is a genuinely Spanish wine making method, used for aging the "vinos generosos".
The velo (veil) or flor is a layer of living yeasts that forms on the surface of the wine in the barrel. These living organisms play a major role in defining the character of our Spanish wines. The process is extremely complex and delicate, and makes such wines more sensitive to variations in the climate than any other.
As in Jerez, the finest grape musts, those which promise the most delicate aromas, are selected to make the "vinos generosos", wines which are aged under a veil ( "crianza bajo velo") of flor. For the floating cap of yeast to develop, it is crucial that the wines reach an alcohol content of 15 percent. As previously mentioned, in Montila-Morilies regularly do this without fortification. In Jerez and the Condado de Huelva for example, the winemaker must resort to fortifying the wine with grapes spirits to reach the desired alcohol level.
This method, ideal for ensuring a final product of uniform quality, is used for most Spanish "vinos generosos", both those aged under veil of yeast (finos) and those which undergo an oxidative aging (oloroso, palo cortado, cream, sweet wines), as well as amontillado, a wine which combines the two methods.
Piedra Luenga Fino: Very pale color, reflected sunlight, just delicately tinged with lemon straw notes. Crystalline. If the color is pale, the nose is unmistakebly present. Notes of Pan fried hazelnuts, andulusian spring flowers - jasmine falling into a moorish fountain of cool blue tiles, -hints of fresh pineapple, delicately ripe pear, some pine forest floor, but most of all notes of femminiello lemons (the elongated flavorful lemons of Sorrento). The nose is so intriguing that it takes a long time before you remember to taste it.
Great volume in the mouth. Biright citrus notes, kumquat, physalis (cape gooseberry). Acidity gives this great cut without any heat from alcohol which one often finds in Finos from Jerez. Some cake spice notes and even blue fruits. Very fresh, does not show any oxidative notes. Great persistance without being about power. All finesse. Lime marzipan notes. Mouthwatering salty, mineral finish. The flavors linger and linger in the mouth.
The Fino has a minimun aging of three years and is composed of up to four "criaderas", aged levels of wine.
Of the fino, Bodegas Robles suggests: fit to drink alone, better, accompanied by light portions of food (tapas) - seafood, fried fish, ham, sausages, aged cheeses, olives, almonds ...
Piedra Luenga Amontillado: Lovely translucent, oh so delicate pale mahagony color. Aromas waft from the glass as you study the color. In the mouth it is surprisingly fresh. Walnuts, red fruits (strawberries) pomegranate. Again, wonderful presence in the mouth. Some hints of sweetness here (kirsch or wild plum eaux de vie as the alcohol (16%) reveals itself. Just slightly oxidative notes. With air, notes of English candied ginger and orange rind. Slightly heavier than the Fino, but one can't help returning again and again to the glass. Finishes with notes of nutmeg, and candied ginger. This would be fascinating to pair with dishes like duck with an orange sauce.
The domaine suggest it as an accompaniment to dried fruit with slices of ham, aged cheese and even with blue cheeses.
Piedra Luenga Pedro Ximenez:
To produce this wine the grape bunches are spread out in the sun on the "paseros" (esparto mats). Every day the bunches are carefully turned to ensure an even toasting in the hot southern Spanish sun, until they are practically raisins. The aim is to reduce the liquid content of the grape, so that the resulting must will contain more than 300 grams of sugar per liter. In fact, there are 320 grams of residual sugar in this wine. After pressing in a horizontal press at 100 atmospheres, the grapes are pressed a second time in a vertical press with the grapes separated by multiple layers of mats ("capazos")(over 30 layers) at 300 atmospheres.
A cherry tinted mahogany color. The nose is creamed nuts, dacquoise, orange honey notes. The mouth is quite thick but bright. Candied oranges, spices and acacia flower. The longer one holds it in the mouth, the more the honey notes come to the fore. Despite the sugar, it is not at all heavy, but surprisingly delicate. Some fine molasses and toffee notes that become more and more ethereal until stony mineral notes come through as if one had been sucking on a molasses covered stone and after the molasses is absorbed by the palate you are left with the stone. In the finish there are some butterscotch and english pudding notes.
The bodega suggests that "it can be drunk alone as a dessert in itself that can be repeated throughout the day, after breakfast, lunch or snack. A real tonic, raises spirits and helps recuperate after a long day of work."
